New midtown restaurant provides truly artisan dining experience | Houston Restaurants | 29-95.com Restaurants
New midtown restaurant provides truly artisan dining experience
Greg Morago at 2:45 pm on March 5, 2012
Menu cover at Artisans restaurant.: Photos: Nick de la Torre
The terms “artisan” and “artisanal” have fast become two of the most overworked words in pop culture these days. Savvy marketers have latched onto the terms, especially where food is concerned, to suggest something handcrafted and special. So if Domino’s can bake an Artisan Pizza and Panera Bread can call itself “artisan fast food” where does that leave the small craft baker toiling daily to create a perfect baguette?
Doesn’t seem fair, does it? It leaves the consumer to decide what is truly artisan — a personal and subjective distinction to be sure.
In the case of Artisans, a new French restaurant in Midtown, there is nothing to be suspicious about. Artisans has been designed to be truly artisan in every respect. Physically, the handsome space boasts thoughtful, handcrafted touches at every turn. The striking architectural design (courtesy of Michael Hsu Office of Architecture in Austin, responsible for Uchi in Austin and Houston) boasts repetitive symbols of the Gallic rooster and fleur de lis throughout. It’s a thrilling setting for chef Jacques Fox’s “French eclectic” fare.
Interior Artisans restaurant looking toward seating facing open kitchen.
“I call it eclectic because I have cooked all over the world,” he said. And those global touches act as grace notes for classic French cuisine. Tasmanian salmon (Fox prefers it because he says it’s a sweeter fish) sports a caramelized skin and a soy-balsamic jus; pistachio-crusted Chilean sea bass makes nice with creamy mussels and fava beans; pan-seared scallops are paired with spinach ravioli and a shot of lobster cappuccino; and a fancy surf-and-turf features roasted chicken with butter-poached lobster tail lavished with a creamy lobster sauce and parmesan risotto.
Tuna tartare with sesame tuile.
What else is on Fox’s smartly edited menu? Duck breast with quail leg confit; tuna tartare; foie gras with saffron poached pear; lobster bisque; lamb loin with fingerling mashed potatoes; and Marseillaise-style red snapper with saffron potatoes. Artisans’ diners don’t just get dinner — they also get a show, thanks to a dramatic open kitchen that functions very much like a stage.
Fox is the former executive chef of the Conrad N. Hilton College of Hotel and Restaurant Management at the University of Houston and he also spent time as chef of the Briar Club in Houston and Miramont Country Club in College Station. He dreamed of taking the open kitchen concept to the next level by expanding the definition of a “chef’s table,” he said. Traditionally, chef’s tables are a single private dining table situated close to the kitchen where diners can observe the staff at work. At Artisans nearly the entire dining room gets the chef’s table treatment with direct sight lines into the expansive kitchen set. Because diners are so drawn by the theatrical nature of the kitchen, Fox said he and his partners (David and Sylvain Denis of Le Mistral and Jason Schickedanz) decided to “bring the kitchen to the guest.”
There are 28 seats along a horseshoe-shaped lip of the kitchen and a half dozen higher tables behind that act offer “mezzanine” views. The kitchen also is visible from banquettes and booths near the restaurant entrance. Additionally, there’s a private dining room behind the kitchen with its own windows on the kitchen.
So how does Fox feel being so exposed in his beautiful new kitchen with so many dining eyes on him? It doesn’t phase him a bit.
“I’m ‘on’ all the time,” he says with a smile. “It’s not a problem.”
Jacques Fox, executive chef Artisans.
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Artisans, 3201 Louisiana, 713-529-9111; artisansrestaurant.com
Open for lunch Monday-Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; dinner Monday-Thursday from 6 to 10 p.m., Friday-Saturday from 6 to 11 p.m. and Sunday from 5 to 10 p.m. Brunch served Sunday from 11 am. to 2 p.m. Bar happy hour Monday-Saturday from 4 to 6 p.m.
Why does food look so artsy-fartsy these days?
These days? Noveau cuisine has been around for 30 years.
Why does food look so artsy-fartsy these days?
Because MOST people feast with their eyes as well.
...and MOST people don't realize their dinner at places like this consists of two bites and a sprig of mint, all for fifty bucks a head.
At least I get a nice MEAL at Indika.
Ah!! ... to be white and rich in America.
Yeah, me too. The only thing I could focus on when reading this article was not the food or the location of the restaurant, but how much I hate white people. That and the voices in my head. I'm guessing you have the same problem too.
Hey, it's Jean-Luc Picard! ENGAGE!
Artisan? What, do the customers pick and thresh the wheat from out back? Yes, that word is overused.
I didn't mean to make fun of his work. He looks like a gentleman that I would like to have a conversation with. I'll bet the food is delicious.
Really hope this place succeeds at least long enough for me to try it out. Another place just down the road recently closed. This will be a nice compliment to that area too. There's already a sushi place, a Canadian bar with Quebecois beer, a Belgian restaurant and this place all within a block or two. Maybe South Midtown will become a restaurant destination.
Which bar is that? I loved the bars in Montreal and Quebec.
Maple Leaf
Terrific article on a fantastic new Midtown restaurant. As a preface let me simply state that I've actually dined at the restaurant and highly recommend it. Reading the previous comments reminded me that for better of for worse the Internet provides a forum for anyone to express their opinion, regardless of merit or accuracy.
So...what's really going on at Artisans? SImply stated I think most people (regardless of race, ethnicity or socioeconomic status...) will love it.
Why You'll Love It
- French-native Executive Chef Jacques Fox’s much-lauded “French Eclectic” menu
- Brand-new restaurant from the brothers behind Le Mistral, Chef David Denis and Sylvain Denis
- Open kitchen to witness culinary artistry first hand
You’ve probably already heard the buzz about Artisans Restaurant—that its fine French fare and five-star service are seriously upping the ante on Midtown dining.
But word-of-mouth or a simple written review can’t capture the vibrant atmosphere on par with the most romantic Parisian street. That side of the story can only be experienced first hand. Sit along the open kitchen with a date and watch the virtuoso chefs (Chef Michael Sanguinetti and Russell Kirkham) craft your pistachio-crusted Chilean Seabass from locally sourced ingredients. Or, take over the private dining room for a private celebration. Either way, you’ll leave this soon-to-be Houston staple decidedly in-the-know and satisfied.
For a bargain, try the 3 course business lunch for $25 or order off the regular menu serving what Chef Fox calls “French eclectic” fare. Chef Fox expressed to us that his menu is classic French cuisine with flavor and technique influences from around the world. “I call it eclectic because I have cooked all over the world.”
The portions are generous and the presentation beautiful. Chef Fox, is always in motion and when he has a break, willing to speak with diners. The wait staff are competent and always friendly. The restaurant itself offers a unique experience with nearly the entire dining room receiving the chef’s table treatment with direct sight lines into the expansive kitchen set. Artisans brings the kitchen to the guest.
There are 28 seats along a horseshoe-shape lip of the kitchen and a half dozen higher tables behind that act offer “mezzanine” views. The kitchen is visible from banquettes and booths near the restaurant entrance. Additionally, there’s a private dining room behind the kitchen with its own windows on the kitchen.
Appetizers include pan-seared scallops with spinach ravioli and a lobster cappuccino; foie gras with crème de cassis and saffron-poached pear; and duck and duck breast with quail leg confit and fig gastrique. Dinner entrees include Tasmanian salmon with soy au jus and creamy risotto; pistachio-crusted Chilean sea bass with creamy mussels and fava beans; seared red snapper with saffron potatoes; seared lamb loin with fingerling mashed potatoes; and roasted chicken breast with butter-poached lobster tail.
Appetizers range from $8 to $22 and entrees range from $28 to $39 with a five-course chef's tasting for $65.
Ready for dinner and a show? You can get them together at Artisans.